Practical guideMagnesia
Mount Pelion villages: which to visit, side by side of the mountain
Makrinitsa, Portaria, Tsagkarada, Zagora, Milies, Damouchari: the villages of Mount Pelion by side of the mountain, with elevation, distance from Volos and what each is worth.
At a glance
- Gateway
- Volos, at the foot of the mountain
- Three sides
- North/central Pelion above Volos, east facing the Aegean, south and west facing the Pagasetic Gulf
- Makrinitsa
- 564 m, about 6 km in a straight line from Volos
- Portaria
- 620 m, next to Makrinitsa
- Tsagkarada
- 485 m, east Pelion
- Pelion railway
- Ano Lechonia–Milies, 15 km, on set days each season
Mount Pelion is a mountain that drops into the sea on two sides: the Aegean to the east and the Pagasetic Gulf to the west. Its slopes hold dozens of villages with stone mansions, cobbled paths and squares shaded by ancient plane trees. The easiest way to plan them is side by side.
Above Volos
Makrinitsa (564 m) is the best-known village on Pelion and the closest to Volos. Its square looks over the whole Pagasetic Gulf, which is why it is called "the balcony of Pelion". Next to it, Portaria (620 m) has the widest choice of places to stay. Higher up, Agios Lavrentios and Drakia, at about 540 metres, are quieter.
East Pelion, facing the Aegean
Here the mountain is greener and steeper, and the beaches lie at the end of narrow roads. Zagora (458 m) is the largest village on this side, Tsagkarada (485 m) spreads over four neighbourhoods in the forest, and Kissos and Mouresi lie between them. Below Tsagkarada, Damouchari is a tiny harbour where scenes of Mamma Mia! (2008) were filmed, and along the same coast are Mylopotamos and Chorefto.
South and west Pelion
Milies (385 m) and Vyzitsa (495 m) are the best base for south Pelion. Milies is the end of the old narrow-gauge Pelion railway: the little train leaves Ano Lechonia and climbs 15 kilometres to Milies in about an hour and a half, on set days each season (see the Hellenic Train timetable). Further south, Argalasti and Trikeri lead to the quiet shores of the Pagasetic Gulf at Milina and Platanias.
Practical notes
Allow at least three days: distances look short on the map, but the roads are narrow and winding. Every village has its own page in the magazine's village guide, with a map, elevation and population.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most beautiful village in Pelion?
There is no single one. Makrinitsa is the best known and the closest to Volos, with a view over the whole Pagasetic Gulf. Tsagkarada and Zagora are quieter, on the eastern side, close to the Aegean beaches. Milies and Vyzitsa are the best base for south Pelion.
Where was Mamma Mia filmed in Pelion?
At Damouchari, the small harbour below Tsagkarada. Scenes of the 2008 film were shot there; the rest was filmed on Skopelos and Skiathos.
How many days do I need in Pelion?
At least three: one for Makrinitsa and Portaria, one for east Pelion and its beaches, one for the south. The mountain is big and the roads are narrow and winding.
Do I need a car in Pelion?
In practice, yes. KTEL Magnesia buses run from Volos to the larger villages, but with few departures. To see more than one village a day you need a car.
Is Pelion worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you want mountain villages and beaches on the same trip. It is also far less crowded than the islands, and close to Volos, the port for the Sporades.