Climbing from Pyli into the mountains, after many bends through the forest, the road suddenly opens out. In front of you spread green meadows, ringed by fir trees like a wall. This is Pertouli, one of the best-known mountain spots in Thessaly.
The meadows
The meadows of Pertouli are open mountain grasslands at more than a thousand metres. In summer they are green and cool, and for centuries they were pastures for the flocks that came up from the plain. In winter they are covered in snow and become slopes for skiing and sledging, with the ski centre a little further on.
The forest
Around the meadows lies dense fir forest. A large part of it is the University Forest of Pertouli, which belongs to the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki and has been used for research and for training forestry students for decades. That is why it is one of the best-studied forests in the country.
The paths through the forest are quiet and shady. In autumn, with the damp, mushrooms come up, and the ground smells of fir and wet earth.
As you walk among the firs, watch for the signs and markers: in a research forest some areas are experimental plots, and it is best to stay on the paths.
The villages around
Pertouli is also a village, with guesthouses and tavernas, and around it are other mountain villages of Pyli: Elati, Neraidochori, Pyrra. The area lives mainly from winter tourism, but more and more people come in spring and autumn too, for walking and cycling.
Autumn at Pertouli
In October Pertouli is quiet. The meadows turn yellow, the evenings get cold, and the first fire of the year is lit in the guesthouse fireplaces. It is the season for those who want the mountain without the winter crowds.
Practical notes
From Trikala, Pertouli is about an hour by road, via Pyli. The road is good but has many bends. In winter you need snow chains. Bring warm clothes even in September: it is noticeably colder than on the plain.
