Wednesday 23 September 2026 · Thessaly, GreeceΕλληνικά
Exploring Thessaly

PlacesKarditsa

Agrafa: the mountains that never made it into the registers

Sheer peaks, stone bridges and villages clinging to the slopes. The Agrafa are among the most untouched mountains in Greece, a short drive from the plain of Karditsa.

Editorial team · · 1 min read · Agrafa

Agrafa: the mountains that never made it into the registers

Drive west from Karditsa, past Lake Plastiras, and the road begins to climb. Soon the plain is behind you and ahead lie the Agrafa, the southern part of the Pindus range, shared between the Karditsa regional unit and Evrytania.

Why "Agrafa"

There are several explanations for the name, which means "unwritten". The most widespread says that their villages, isolated and hard to reach, were never entered in the conquerors' tax registers. Whatever the truth, the area kept a high degree of autonomy for centuries, and a reputation as a land that would not be ruled.

What you will find

  • Stone bridges over rivers and streams, many of them still standing.
  • Villages of stone houses and squares shaded by plane trees, which fill up in summer when those who left come home.
  • Paths for walking, from easy strolls to serious mountain routes.
  • Monasteries in places with spectacular views.

With care

The Agrafa are real mountains: the roads are narrow, mobile coverage is patchy in places and the weather changes fast. Check road conditions, especially in winter, and never set off on a walk without knowing the route.

Temporary photographs. Photo: Dim Philos / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Photo: Petros Ziogas / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Photographs

Snow-covered peaks of the Agrafa.
Snow-covered peaks of the Agrafa.

Read more